Manto ka Kauwa

Had read Manto's short story 'Manto ka Kutta' long time back. That was my first Manto read and I was damn impressed by his writing. Havent read much of him though.

Also, had heard a lot about the evening flag ceremony at Wagah Border a lot. My brother had told me that you must see the parade at least once.
So, when I visited Amritsar and had some time at my disposal...arranged for going for the Wagah ceremony. Had arranged for some up close seats near the gate but due to some miscommunication...we couldnt get those seats and had to see the ceremony along with hundreds of others. (actually glad that we didnt get thos 'VIP' seats)

What a crowd man...people from all parts of India...Marathis, Biharis, Tamils...everyone...armed with cameras and water bottles (Its damn hot in Amritsar). Everyone seemed to have reached much in advance...but there was no clue of any ceremony. The main gate was closed. Suddenly some songs started playing in the loud speakers..."Suno Gaur se duniya walo". There was a loud cheer in the crowd. People started chanting "Bharat Mata ki ....Jai". A gentleman came with a mike and starting prompting the audience to shout slogans aka "Vande..." and then the crowd was supposed to say "Mataram". He seemed to be a professional in what he was doing.

Initially...I also got charged with emotions of patriotism as some soldiers marched towards the gate. But soon...I got back to my nerves...and everthing seemed to be a tamaasha.

After that I dont want to describe...how things followed after that...people in the crowd were instigated to shout towards the Pakistani side...to make them hear....for them to understand that we are more in number and loudness.

After some reading...i was able to make out that the person, who was instigating the crowd was also from the Border Security Force, I suppose. A uniformed person (he was in civil dress at that time) instigating the crowd.

Moreover...the face off between Indian and Pakistani border guards just pissed me off. I mean...it felt like a bull fight wiht people instigating and the guards stomping their feet. All tamaasha....unneccessary dramatisation of a ritual...it seemed.

there was similar drama happening on the other side I suppose. I could see people shouting on the other side as well...but couldnt hear them as the entire game of the evening is not to let the other side make noise....so you keep shouting....thats it.

In no time...I was cucooned in a circle of my own in this massive crowd shouting pro-India slogans. In fact...may be for a while I couldnt even hear what they were shouting...it was just silence amidst noise. ...and I noticed one Crow sitting on the building of the Border security force fo India quickly take a flight and just glide towards a wall on the Pakistani side. Pure bliss...In a moment the crow...reminded me of the futility of the ceremony...happening. The border is just for humans not for these crows or some other creatures. I am sure that crow must be crossing the border plenty of times without a visa.

I wish I was a crow....I thought....and I was back in the crowd...

I dont know why it takes so long to pull down a flag...it should be a 5 minute thing. But solidiers keep marching from here to there to prove...I dont know what.

Later...when the ceremony finished...I joined the gang which gathers at the gate to look at the other side. To see how people 'look' on the other side. And they are shooed away later.

I was also curious to know ...how the other side looks like.

All people had left and all I could see was pet water bottles everywhere. Hundreds of patriots...who shouted patriotic slogans for more than an hour...left that place with hundreds of bottles, biscuit and chips wrappers. It hurt me a lot.

I didnt know...how to react...after all i was all enthusiastic about coming and seeing that ceremony.

The sun was setting and there were still as couple of people who had come out of that space but were looking at a clearning where you could see the Pakistani fence. There were such enthusiasts on the other side as well.

And I came back thinking about the crow...which flew across the border....'Manto ka kauwa' ...I would call that crow.

And...for once I wished...this tamaasha needs to stop...before any other peace initiative between the countries. Because not only is it a tamaasha...but it is a full fledged training programme in spreading hatred about Pakistanis to one and all.

May this tamaasha stop.

The title of this post is inspired from Manto's famous story 'Tetval ka kutta' which I remember as 'Manto ka kutta'